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(The rib, chuck and shank cuts often used in the stewed dish are far more economical than brisket.) ![]() I tried the beef birria for which they are known, too, and which offered an economic lifeline to some pitmasters when beef prices soared during the pandemic. The Jacobos have a great, only-in-Houston dish to go with it. It’s a great story - including the wrinkle that Monica is the owner with 51 percent of the operation, while Raul holds 49 percent, a detail he delights in recounting. There’s even a striking wall mural of an astronaut with Minute Maid Park reflected in his helmet visor, which makes a nifty selfie backdrop for the famous and the not-so-famous alike. The bar was profiled on television when it opened just before the World Series, and with myriad big screens and special pay-per-view events, Cobo’s has become a pregaming mecca that has seen a steady stream of prominent sports figures come through. And it turns out attaching their concept to Houston’s sports mania was a smart move. ![]() Which in terms of social media prominence, is the big time. Well, now the Jacobos have moved their operation to an EaDo spot roughly equidistant from Minute Maid Park, Toyota Center and the Dynamos’ stadium. During the pandemic, I used to ogle photos of customers’ aluminum trays groaning with food, awed by the sprawl of quesadillas and - later, when the birria craze hit - the bulging tacos. There were times when he wanted to give up.īut by 2017, they had a solid enough customer base to open up a stand on a semirural stretch of Atascocita Road, with outdoor seating on the huge, grassy lot. Once he’d scraped together enough money to buy a big barbecue trailer, he and his wife, Monica, worked catered events and parked their rig at car wash parking lots and the like to sell to customers. Jacobo started selling barbecue out of his Atascocita backyard back in 2010. This work of undeniable genius comes with a very Houston version of a Horatio Alger story. And they keep - reviving nicely the next day with 30 seconds in the microwave, followed by pan-toasting on both sides. One triangle is kind of its own little meal. I scarfed two triangles in midafternoon and hardly ate for the rest of the day. I tried adding a little green salsa that came with the birria tacos in my order, but the quesadilla needed no such adornment. It’s a memorable bite that only requires a bit of sweet raw onion crunch to soar, scooped from the heap of cilantro and chopped onion on the side. The Cajun/Creole sausage that is so beloved here gets its unique character from the pork liver that is mixed in with rice and other pork cuts, and it adds a further umami dimension to the quesadilla. And … what’s that … the slight, tantalizing funk of boudin percolates in the background. ![]()
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